Day 28. 31st May 2024. Mimbi Caves. Death Defying.

In Central Australia touring slang, “just out of” equates to around an hour or 100ks. Just out of Fitzroy Crossing there is a campsite and tour at Mimbi Caves. We arrived late afternoon at the campsite turnoff after a long drive, and then had 4ks over pretty corrugated road to actually get in. The park was unpowered, and so remote that even the office was 500 meters from the sites. The wind was relentless, the dust was, as we have said before, was everywhere but the view of being surrounded by escarpments was magnificent.

We were tired, no power to plug into and the solar had been playing up, a basic amenities block and being alone with no more than 20 other campers amply spaced out. As we had skipped lunch, dinner was early and cleaning up was before sunset. By the time the sun had set at 6, we were knackered and we just wanted to hunker out of the wind and dust into our little caboose. There was no internet to let me watch the bulldogs game, so just some chatting and reading. A quiet night but I thought I’d sneak out and watch for shooting stars a bit later as there was no light pollution. Then ready to settle down, Linda came back from the toilets and violently opened my door and said move over to let her in on my side as there was a snake on hers.

Being after sunset, it seemed unlikely to me. As we leant over and opened her door and peered out, there indeed was a snake lying there just a meter from the van. We took a photo and a vow of staying inside, only making a careful and nervous trip outside when nature called in more usual ways during the night. After half an hour it seemed to decide to just not be there any more. There was no sign of it, and neither of us wanted to contemplate that it was about to start a new movie franchise called “Snake in a van”. We assumed it slithered on its merry way to find its dinner of a more reasonable size.

We toured the caves the next morning, which was another education of indigenous culture, history and insight. The caves were more like a labyrinth of hidey holes in above ground rock formations, with water pools, and eerie gaps to let light in. A place of cultural significance as we heard the stories of how people were massacred for stealing a calf, personal tales from the stolen generation and feel good stories of somehow someone who became friends and learned the culture and language of the guide overcame fertility troubles – coincidence or not, it is a story of people bonding and understanding, which we could see more of these days. Another instance of coming for a holiday and getting an education.

The tour finished with billy tea, damper and Johnny cakes and a chat. Linda showed the photo of our no legged friend to the guide and confirmed that it was indeed a death adder. As she was also the campground manager, it was surprising that she was so surprised to see it, and we were surprised when she asked if we killed it. No f’n way Rose, we didn’t have a shovel to take this bad boy down, we just closed the doors and hoped for the best. We’re city slickers, not snake killers.

I also mentioned that there was no internet, and also have mentioned on a previous post that if you don’t want to have the conversation, don’t wear the shirt. At first light, I make the morning trip to the ablutions block, dressed in my bulldogs campshirt. Upon exiting and heading towards the van, the first stranger I pass asks me if I am happy with the 3 goal win last night and wasn’t it a good game. Old mate had starlink and no snakes, and enjoyed the match quietly as to not disturb the neighbours. This is one time that being disturbed would have been most welcomed! It also proves that the old bush telegraph is still pretty slick even in this day and age.

Facilities: I have mentioned that Linda had really painful skin from the water last time we travelled and we had managed the situation with some great QV product. Upon entering the toilet and seeing the water stains that were on a ceramic bowl, it is no wonder the water had tried to melt her skin. Showers at next venue – 2/10.